How To Use A Binding Foot 13


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Sewing Bee Fabrics Tutorial
How To Use A Bias Binding Sewing Machine Foot

How to use a sewing machine binding foot

This really one of my favourite sewing machine feet. It makes adding binding unbelievably easier than doing it free hand and gives a beautifully uniform finish.

Sewing bee fabrics Bias binder

First off you need to decide what you want to bind to the edge of your fabric. You can either use shop bought binding or make your own. You can either use fabric that been cut on the bias (at a 45 degree angle) or cut straight. The bias cut tends to be stronger and have more stretch which is why it is the favourite for shop bought bindings. I wouldn't recommend combining cuts from different angles as the different fabric properties may pull your piece out of shape over time. When making my own binding, I always cut a length at least a couple of inches longer than i thought i needed. Partly because you may loose some length with attaching the ends, but also because it's far easier to trim some off than it is add some if your calculations were wrong or your material stretches. The width to cut for your own binding needs to be 4 times the width what want on show on the outside of the material. I start of by pressing the material in half along the whole length. Next I fold the outer edges to meet the central line. I press again then pin place.

how to make your own binding

Alternately you can make life quicker, easier, and straighter for yourself by using a bias making tool.

Most domestic sewing machines have clip on and off interchangeable feet - often with a little lever at the back to release it. Simply switch out your standard foot and clip this one in.

Fold your binding in half. Shop bought or tool-made binding is often not created equal. The underside is usually slightly wider so that as you are stitching you are less likely to miss the binding as there is a larger error margin for the part you can't see.

Bowl cover tutorial - Bias binding

Make sure the screw at the front is untwisted enough to give plenty of space for the binding. Thread the edges into the top and bottom shelves. Sometimes it's easier to position it in the middle then wiggle the ends into the shelves than it is to thread it through, especially for bulkier bindings.

Threading a sewing machine binding foot2

As you push your binding through, sometimes it can get stuck against the presser foot section so just angle it down as you go. Pull the binding through until it is just passed the presser foot.

Use the screw on the front right to tighten the alignment until the plastic guide sits flush to the centre crease of the binding. You may need to readjust this again after your first few stitches as the tension on the binding may change.

adjusting sewing machine binder width setting

I find it easier to line the fabric up by sliding it between the shelves in the binding feeder, then backwards towards the needle. If your fabric is curved, don't worry about trying to line all the binding around the edges. As long as they are pushed up together under the foot, you can guide the fabric and binding to bring them together as you stitch.

threading the fabric to meet the binding

Next untighten the back screw.

adjusting the needle position on the binding foot

Slide the binding feeder left or right until the needle position is as far towards the centre or edge as you need. Be careful not to stitch too close to the edge or you are more likely to slip off the binding and have it prone to being pulled away from your fabric.

adjusting the needle position on the binding foot2

When starting to stitch, it is worth noting that you can only anchor down with 2 or 3 back stitches. I have found that more than this tends to lead to a tangled thread mess as the previous stitches have closed over the binding so the material has nowhere to go.

When stitching together, I tend to use my right hand to guide the binding and make sure it stays aligned, and use the left hand to constantly push the edge of the fabric up against the binding.

feeding the binding through the sewing machine

If the binding starts to twist or move out of the shelves, stop the machine straight away. If you can't slide it easily back in position, use a pin to draw the binding back onto the shelf. Don't leave the pin in as you sew!

trouble solving bias binder fold

Should you have any need to stop part way through e.g. needing to rethread, there is no need to cut the binding. Simply shuffle it towards the back of the sewing machine with the needle up in the highest position to release the thread tension, then slide the binding out from the shelves into the centre, where it can easily be removed. To restart, just do the reverse.

Start with the material behind the sewing machine. Push the binding into the centre of the plastic feeder and wiggle it back into top and bottom shelves. From there, simply pull gently towards you until you hit the tension created by meeting your previous stitches. Align the needle as before to get a seamless join.

If you have made your own binding, you are likely to have seams where you have joined fabric lengths together. This makes the binding bulkier as it goes through the feeder. Sometimes this can get a little stuck. I usually find that if you very gently pull the fabric/binding that has already been through just as you go over the seam then it tends to glide through much easier.

To finish off, I always leave about half an inch at the end unstitched. I switch back to a multipurpose presser foot. Trim the binding leaving enough to fold the ends back under themselves whilst having a slight overlap. Make sure they wrap around the fabric at the same depth so you cannot see where the join is, then stitch into place.

Having had the embarrassment before of thinking I have the perfect binding only for it to pull right away where the stitching had only just caught the edge of the fabric, I always do a top stitch or zigzag as close to the edge as I can to really be sure it is anchored into place. Once you've seen how easy and professional this looks I dare you to try not to bind every curved raw edge you can for many projects to come!

We hope you enjoy our tutorials and love hearing what you think so please leave us a comment or send me an email to linda@sewingbeefabrics.co.uk


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13 thoughts on “How To Use A Binding Foot

    • Sewing Bee Fabrics Post author

      To get sharp corners, I sew near to the corner but leaving enough space to turn, leaving my needle down to hold everything in place, I line the binding up around the corner and tuck the excess binding in diagonally across the corner before sew over it. I find it easier to unhook the binding from the guide and feed the binding underneath instead while I do it.

  • Hallie

    I am making oval mug rugs and using the binding foot and need to know how to connect the ends of the bias tape. All suggestions will be appreciated.

    • Sewing Bee Fabrics Post author

      Leave a tail at the start of your binding then stop sewing with about 3 fingers width left. Unhook it all from your binding foot. Measure how much more bias you need to finish your sewing, then flip the bias ends right sides together and unfold them. Sew straight across to join them. Fold them back into a bias tape shape, then flip it back over the edge you are binding. Sew it down in place. Hope that makes sense!

  • Irma Morrone

    I want to make lots off baby clothes and I’m using stretch fabric for bias tape is there a more suitable foot available on the market?

    • Sewing Bee Fabrics Post author

      I have’t come across one that it would easily feed through because it would need to have a walking foot type of action with it or it would stretch the fabric as it goes through. I quite often use fold over elastic instead. That’s really easy to sew on and far less bulky.

    • Sewing Bee Fabrics Post author

      Traditional quilt corners are folded to get a crisp point (usually a mitred corner) which is why the bias foot wont replicate that. Traditional quilts will also usually use a very wide binding to accommodate thick wadding layers which may or may not fit inside the guide. If you wanted a mitred corner using a binding foot, you can sew up to near the corner, unhook it to fold your corner in place and stitch over the top using it like a normal presser foot, then slide the next edge back through the guide to continue. Or alternatively to get a different corner effect you could take it close to the corner, leave your needle down and pivot your fabric and binding to line up with the next edge then lower back down to continue. If you try to sew straight around it without stopping will just keep the tension even as you go around which will pull the corner up into a curl instead. So if that’s what you prefer to do, if you clip the corner into a curl the corner it will lay flatter. I hope that makes sense!

  • Pauline Breakwell

    Thanks for the clear, step by step guide to using the bias binding foot that has been lurking in my sewing drawer for years!